Trip Guide and Salsa Dance Report
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Well, I told you I was going to Cancun, and I did.
Just like this Salsera before me, I traveled the longer than expected
trip from San Francisco to Cancun (6 hours by plane) on April 18th ,
2001, and stayed a full week through the 25th.
This will be a rather long article (ok, itís REALY REALLY LONG), so if
you want to skip directly to the salsa dancing
portions, just click the link, otherwise, read on! If you are traveling
there, I recommend reading the entire article as there are many invaluable tips
Overall, the trip was a lot of fun, and I would recommend
Cancun as a vacation spot to almost anyone. Cancun has gorgeous beaches,
fantastic weather (In April, the weather was 80-90ís with high humidity and
light breezes), and nonstop nightlife. Iíd
watch out before going in the summer as it gets VERY hot.
Note, we went right after Spring Break, and unless you are 18-22 and VERY
into tons of people I would not recommend traveling to Cancun during Spring
Break (March 15-April 15th). The week after was great.
The crowd in Cancun is very diverse in ages, but was mostly made up of
Americans, Canadians and Europeans. Anyway, I donít think Iíll go back for
quite some time as there are too many other great places to go in the world, but
someday Iíll return. It mixes a
Las Vegas feel with Mexico. It kind
of reminded me of Southern California.
First, the bookings. We researched our options very
thoroughly before leaving. We
looked at Suntrips, Apple Vacations, FunJet, and Runaway Tours. We opted for
Runaway because we had a friend there, but really, almost any of these tour
companies have their pros and cons. Runaway
(a local travel company) was very reliable, and I would recommend them. Suntrips
was the only carrier from San Francisco to offer a direct charter flight,
leaving at midnight. We opted however to travel on American Airlines with a stop
in Texas. The flight is longer than
I expected Ė between 5 or 6 hours, and it took the better part of a day to
make it there.
Hotels. Probably our biggest decision! I love fancy
hotels and Cancun has a ton of them. We
narrowed our decision down to the Hyatt Cancun Caribe, The Fiesta Americana
Condesa, and the Continental Plaza. We
chose the Fiesta American Condesa because it was the highest rated (in all the tour guide
travel brochures. and on the message boards) and a little farther away from the
ďmainĒ tourist strip. I
envisioned a true luxury hotel, and my star-filled eyes couldnít see past the
marketing hype. What we got was a
fantastic lobby, a great pool area, a fairly nice beach, a not-so-great room
(terrible bathroom), and laughably bad service (although they did improve as the
trip went on). In hindsight I would
say, stay on the strip and go with the cheapest you can find.
What you should be concerned with is the hotelís location, room, pool
and beach. If the room is the most
important thing to you, then you want to choose a high-end hotel, if the beach
is the most important you HAVE to check the beach at every hotel.
Many high end hotels have lousy beaches! A deck is also a big plus. In short, you want one.
The fifteen or so minutes I spent every morning out on our deck, looking
at the swaying palms and into the endless clear blue crystal waters, was a
highpoint of the trip.
There is one level higher than the hotel we chose. There is
the Ritz and the Fiesta Americana Gran Coral Beach. My advice is this Ė if you have the money and you want the
absolute best, do the Ritz (the prices were the same). The Fiesta Americana
chain was mediocre, and our trip to the Gran Coral Beach to check it out, showed
the service to be sub-par. However,
the Ritz, was awesome! Great rooms, great service, very nice. What do you expect
. . . itís the Ritz.
What I would recommend is going one to two stars lower than
what we went. Youíll get ALL the
benefits of our vacation, youíll save some cash, and youíll probably get a
better room. The downside is . . .
you might not have a huge lobby, or as nice a pool area. The beach will, more than likely, be the same.
If we were to go back we would either stay at the Ritz (if I win the
lottery) or the Contintental Plaza (which is very well located 3-4 stars, that
is perfectly priced). Weíd also think about the Hyatt Cancun Caribe.
Specifically, we would not stay at the Fiesta Americana chain.
Cost: What exactly is the difference between hotels
and how much does all this cost? Ok,
our hotel and air costs $2400, roughly $1200 a person, for an 8 day trip.
If we had gone with a cheaper hotel, like the Continental Plaza (which
the previous Salsera recommended), we could have gone for roughly $250 - $300
cheaper (per person). This is what I recommend. It is possible, with even cheaper
hotels, to go for between 600-800 per person (through Suntrips).
My advice is to stay on the hotel strip, and stay as close to the
northern edge of the strip as possible (if you are interested in nightlife or
visiting Cancun city).
The Beach Chair Hysteria! This was one of the funniest things on our trip.
How an easy trip down to the pool can turn into a search and destroy
mission for a lounge chair. As we were told when we arrived there, and as we experienced
first hand, beach chairs go quickly. By
7am, most chairs had a towel or book on them, as a show of being reserved, and
by 9am, forget it Ė thereís not a beach chair to be found for miles.
It turns out most people just reserve chairs (by placing a
towel or book on them) and then never return.
Itís like dogs claiming their space by peeing on trees. Was this just
an experience at our hotel? Are beach chairs plentiful in the rest of Cancun or
is there a beach chair shortage throughout the city? Well, it turns out, this is not an isolated incident.
Beach chairs are highly coveted at all the hotels.
Now, donít get me wrong, itís not that there arenít a LOT of beach
chairs, but there are A LOT of people as well.
It seemed that as our vacation went on, there were less people, which had
a noticeable effect on the patience needed to secure a chair.
There is a secret here.
Just find chairs you like, even if they are covered by towels.
Ask the people next to the empty chairs if theyíve seen people there
(chances are they havenít). Touch the towels and see if they are wet.
If all seems ok, just remove the towel, fold it up, and place it behind
the chair. Plop down and relax.
Chances are youíll be ok, and saved yourself at least a Ĺ hour of
The AI versus Non-AI dilemma!
Should your trip be all-inclusive or not?
For those of you that are unaware (as I was), an all-inclusive vacation
is a vacation that includes all your food and beverages at the hotel you are
staying at. If you are a big-eater
or heavy drinker, you can get a great package rate that includes all of that
stuff at your hotel. This is a great deal IF you are going to spend a lot of time
at your hotel, hanging out by the pool/ocean OR you are going to return to your
hotel for your 2-3 meals a day. Since
Iím not a heavy drinker, and I love to go out to eat, we opted against the AI
plan. The food we saw, included in
the AI plan, didnít have a great deal of variety.
The need for water!
This is an expense we hadnít planned for. While you can get purified water most of the time, youíve
got to buy water the rest of the time (if not all of the time). Most
hotels have a purified water tap, but we chose to just stick with bottled water.
Unless you find a cheap place to buy it, it can cost up to $4 a bottle in
the hotel zone! Be careful. We went
through at least 3-4 bottles (big bottles) of water a day.
For cheap water I recommend the grocery story in the Kukulcan Shopping
mall. We got our water there (many
bottles at a time) and lugged it back to the hotel.
Actually, I was just reminded that the cheapest water we found was by the
sole Laundromat in the hotel zone (the shop right next door, see below).
Public Transportation: Living in San Francisco this
can be a frightening thought, however in Cancun, the public bus system is great!
Tons of busses - never more than a few minute wait (even at 3 am), the busses
will carry you along 24 hours a day, very quickly, to your destination. Cheap
($.50) for one way trip! Safe and clean as well - we saw one minor scuffle (by
drunk Americans) the entire time we were there. Busses are the only way to
get around and the best! While cabs are plentiful, we never took one the entire
time we were there. The bus system is just too good.
Safety: Let's talk safety! This is pretty personal
opinion as I always err on the side of excess caution, but overall Cancun is
quite safe. Most of what you have to fear is going to be petty
theft, and even that is very rare. The hotel zone is safe at all hours. It
just requires the same cautious behavior you would use anywhere. The city
requires a little more street smarts, but not much. These places are
pretty darn well-lit and busy. The only problems we saw were caused by
drunken people (and there are a LOT of drunk people). The salsa clubs are
very safe - however places like Fat Tuesday's and Carlos n' Charlies are
crammed with drunk teens!
The CanDo Cancun
map! These maps are part guidebook, part map, and are HIGHLY
recommended. This is simply the
best map you can get if you are going to visit Cancun. We used it everywhere,
and if offers invaluable guidance. I
listed the website, and recommend these maps to help you out with where to stay,
where to eat, and where to party. Yes,
it even lists Salsa Clubs!
Bostonís 2x1 dining/club card!
This is worth the prices of reading this long article right here.
This 2 for 1 card saves you a ton of money, and is well worth the $15
price. If you are not going all inclusive (and even if you are, but you are
going to eat our once or twice), there are many GREAT restaurants supported on
the card, and I highly recommend you check it out. It allows you to get reduced
prices and entrees free and many Cancun hotspots.
A real money-saver! In
addition, Brant himself is a treasure trove of information about Cancun.
We had the card mailed to us prior to the trip (he will also deliver it
to your hotel if you want), and offered us keen insights into what was hot (and
not-so-hot) in Cancun.
WHAT TO DO AND SEE
Chichen-itza: Chicken Pizza Ė the Mayan ruins.
We booked a tour through VI travel (our Runaway tours representative in
Mexico). They booked us on the
Cancun Lines tour and it was great! The
guides were professional, knowledgeable, and funny Ė I would recommend this
tour company. This is a long trip (2 Ĺ hours each way from the ruins), and the
Cancun Lines people treat you right. The
tour included transport to/from hotel on a nice air conditioned bus, lunch
buffet, and guided tour of the ruins (and all the Corona you can drink). It was
$65 a person. The highlight of the ruins is the one structure
(pyramid/temple) that people are still allowed to climb.
You can climb up the 90 or so steps to the top of this pyramid, but be
warned, climbing back down is a harrowing experience. When I got up to the top, most people were terrified,
clinging to the sides of the temple. There
were people crying and having panic attacks.
There are two sides you can climb, one with a rope. My advice Ė use the
rope! I had no problem bolting up
the side of the temple. When I got
to the top, and looked down, whoa . . . not as easy.
You can also walk down inside the temple, but neither one of us did that.
Itís cramped and not good for people who even have slight
claustrophobia. Bring water Ė
itís hot, and there is not a lot of shade. One note Ė the buffet lunch was the best lunch I had on the
trip. Something about that Habanero sauce in the little town we ate in . . .
Isla Mujeres (the Island of the Women): Located
slightly off the Coast of Cancun, we opted to go solo, versus a guided tour.
We took the ferry over (the local ferry from Puerto Juarez) to the Island
and explored it on our own. There are more expensive ferries you can take from
the Hotel Strip, but I recommend just hopping the bus and taking the ferry from
Puerto Juarez. Beautiful beaches,
less people, and cool shops. I
recommend doing your shopping here as it helps the people on the island.
We didnít have lunch here, but we did have some amazing Guacamole.
Itís a pleasant and relaxing atmosphere, and a highlight of our trip.
We even rented a golf cart and toured the island.
If youíre visiting Cancun Ė visit the island!
Downtown Cancun: We only made it here
once (to have dinner and go to a salsa club). From our Hotel it was kind of a
long bus ride (30 minutes). The food is less expensive and was very good. We
visited Stefanoís (member of the 2 for 1 card) and had great service, awesome
food, and good drinks. Itís an
Italian place and has great pasta (with seafood of course). Also, the city has
the cheapest internet cafťís (by far) at only $.50 an hour.
Thereís a lot of shopping to be done there, but honestly, we only went
once Ė had a great time and would recommend visiting.
Doing the Laundry: Yes, we did the laundry in Cancun
Ė yes, because of the heat and humidity you go through a lot of clothes. Yes,
there is one Laundromat on the Hotel strip (if your hotel doesnít offer
laundry service), and finally, yes this is where you can find your cheap water.
Located on the North End of the strip, itís on the map.
SALSA DANCE CLUBS
General Comments: Beautiful clubs! Not many (if ANY) dance
partners for men. Mostly couples in the clubs! For women, the waiters will
dance with you (especially at Batacha), for men, there were more available
single women at Batacha as well. I saw a couple of women at Azucar, but
not plentiful by any means. I think the number of people available to dance, on
any given night, is going to vary greatly (it did on the few nights we were
there). Great music (when they are playing salsa).
Azucar Ė Azucar was a beautiful club!
Well-maintained, air-conditioned, nice dance floor, great sound system,
and centrally located (at the top of the strip near the Fiesta Americana Gran
Coral Beach), this club was fantastic. Live
music, every night except Sunday or Monday.
$3 cover charge. One of the best things about this club, apart from the
fact it was plush, was the bands. They
have quality acts booked there, and fantastic musicians.
The band during our stay was from Cuba and sounded
fantastic. The name escapes me, but
the band starts at 11pm (which is fairly early for Cancun).
Up until the band plays, there is great DJ salsa music. After the band
plays, the breaks are filled with disco music with a mix of everything from
Ricky Martin to Elvis.
There were not many dancers on either of the two nights we
went to this club. On the second
night, we were the only two on the floor (slowly coaxing some others out). When
the disco music starts, everyone seemed to loosen up. While I wish they played more salsa music, what they played
While we did see single people there, there were NOT many.
As a guy, youíd be able to find a few women to ask to dance, but as a
woman, youíd have to strategically position yourself next to the dance floor
and hope for the best!
While it lacks the buddy-buddy service of Batacha, the
Maragaritas were awesome (and huge).
Batacha Ė Another great club, connected to the
Hotel Miramar. This was a more casual place, and a more casual setting to dance.
Even though it is not outside, it gives the feeling of being so with its
large wooden windows.
Since the place was more casual, we definitely saw more
single people, and more people asking each other to dance. The waiters were very
nice, and were often seen dancing with women customers (whether they new how to
dance or not). The band here, while
not as polished as the one at Azucar, was quite fun and played many danceable
tunes (with a bit more Cumbia
thrown into the mix). This club also played more salsa during the breaks.
The waiters here were less stiff and a little more casual
than the ones at Azucar. They brought us a few free drinks and stayed around to
talk and hang out.
La Candela Ė This club is in Cancun
City. There were no tourists there
while we were there, but Iím sure a few wander in every now and then. You walk
down the stairs into this black, tropical like room. Itís quite dark, and had
some nice air conditioning. It had
very tiny chairs and tables! The first hour we were there was non stop merengue
tunes. They switched to salsa at
about 11pm and plenty of people were dancing.
The people were very nice and we had a fun time.
Plenty of dancers (mostly cumbia style, but plenty of others as well).
Also, many single people. The
layout of the club (and the fact that it is so dark) makes it hard to ask people
THE FOOD OF CANCUN
First off, the breakfast places!
Iguana Wana: Our favorite breakfast place! You can
get 2 for 1 with the Brant Card and itís a great buffet.
100% Natural: Another great breakfast, while not a
buffet. It offers plenty of healthy
food to kickstart your mornings (and in Cancun, youíre morning can sometimes
be a little tough). In addition,
some fantastic smoothies! They have
a few locations throughout Cancun.
Captainís Cove: A highly rated and talked about
Breakfast place which did not live up to expectations.
We found the food only fair, although the buffet was large.
Next, the dinner places!
Blue Bayou: In the Hyatt Cancun Caribe this
restaurant is great! From the fantastic drinks, excellent service, unbelievably
fine jazz (that makes you want to dance), and stellar food Ė you wonít want
to miss this place. Yes, itís on
the 2 for 1 card as well! Itís
our #2 choice for Cancun dinner. Cajun
food done well!
La Valentina: Great looking place, but we were let
down by its really bad service, and mediocre over-prepared food.
It has a great ambiance, sitting on the lagoon, but your patience is
sorely tested by the poorly trained wait-staff. From our half-eaten plates being
grabbed away, to our waiter who actually cooked, or overcooked, our meal (there
was more garlic in our shrimp than shrimp) for us at our table, the place just
was a disappointment. My guess is
we went on an off night, but we were the ONLY couple there! They take the Brant
Card, but was the only restaurant to do so grudgingly. The have a Mexican
seafood style menu with a large set of choices.
La Distilleria: Our #1 choice for Cancun.
From the great service, through to the best food, we had a great time at
this Tequila Museum/Mexican restaurant. The
food was fantastic, and they had those excellent Pork Soft Tacos (the name
escapes me), that were actually better than the ones we ate on our trip to
Chichen Itza. Our waiter was great, the service was excellent and polished Ė
and the desert . . . well, we donít even need to go there.
The drinks were varied and all were excellent!
You can relax in their ďcigar bar/port relaxation roomĒ after your
La Dolce Vita: Much talked about as the first Cancun
Italian dining experience, this restaurant was just fair. Nothing special compared to the other places we tried. Fair
Italian food! I liked Stefanos, in Cancun city, better, and it was far cheaper
(and they took the 2 for 1 card). Not
much else to say about this place.
Places we wanted to try but didnít make:
Lorenzillos Lobster House, The Plantation and a variety of places in
And finally, Lunches!
La Arca (in Plaza la Isla Mall): We were attracted
to this place because it has a HUGE Arc (yeah, like Noah) with tons of animals
and decorations that are just plain impressive.
Itís actually a fine restaurant as well. Yes, they accept the 2 for 1 card (although we forgot to use
Food Court (in Plaza la Isla Mall): A great food
court (and they accept the 2 for 1 card). We
had a fine set of soft tacos and guacamole.
Nice place to relax and have lunch!
El Shrimp Bucket: Wow! We almost didnít go here
because of the name, but itís actually a great place.
And best of all -
salsa music playing non stop. The
waiters are all jumping around dancing with each other.
Quite festive and fun, the place is recommended for lunch! We did not get
the shrimp bucket, but opted for Fajitas, and they were great.
AquaWorld Ė Jetski and Jetboats! Fun in the lagoon
. . . we had a great time going out on Jetskis.
But itís pricey, at $39 a half hour.
You can definitely find cheaper, but this is a very touristy locations
that rents the equipment. They are
well run and keep the equipment in good shape.
The last time I was on a Jetski was the 70ís and
theyíve changed a lot since then. I
was on one of those stand up ones, and I was out in the Atlantic ocean.
Well, to make a long story short, I fractured my tailbone.
It was way too big a wave to jump . . . (lesson learned, kind of). Anyway,
these JetSkis are the two person kind, and they go about ten times as fast, but
are also ten times as stable. In
addition, we jetskiied in the lagoon, so NO WAVES! With that said, thereís
still a lot of fun to be had trying to capsize one of these babies. I think I
threw myself a good twenty feet into the air on one of those sharp turns.
We didn't do the Jungle Tour, but will probably do that
next time! Those boats look fun to drive . . .
Cancun is located on the northeast
shoulder of the Yucatan Peninsula in the state of Quintana Roo. Thirty years
ago, this area had no paved roads, no public services. Three people lived on the
island of Cancun, caretaking a coconut palm plantation. Mainland Puerto JuŠrez
had 117 inhabitants. In January, 1971, Mexican government engineers arrived to
begin creating the world's newest resort.
Today, Cancun has more than 25,000
rooms and receives some 2.7 million visitors a year from all over the world,
with most coming from North America. It's clean, modern, safe and prosperous.
The hotels are located on the island, which is now connected to the mainland at
both ends by causeways. Some 500,000 residents live in Cancun City on the
mainland. In the Hotel Zone, you're likely to run into stars such as Donna
Summers (seen looking for a house after giving two private concerts), Madonna
(who already owns one), Bruce Willis, Sylvester Stallone, Demi Moore (investors
in the local Planet Hollywood).
Do you still want more info? Check out these links:
online, cancun and riviera
maya, Exploring Mexico,
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